of the frequently asked questions are fully covered in the Lawn Care Information Tab)
type of grass should I plant for my new lawn? There
are as many types of lawns as there are uses for grass. Determine the use for your
lawn and how much maintenance you are willing to commit to. In our
climate the best ornamental lawns are proprietary varieties of Kentucky
Bluegrass because of their cool-season characteristics, quality color, and
texture. For lawn areas of full sun and/or partial shade, we use a
blend of these Kentucky Bluegrass varieties in our mix. If you have areas of
deep shade, turf-type Fine Fescues will perform best. For heavy traffic areas,
such as playgrounds and athletic fields, a greater percentage of turf-type
Perennial Ryegrasses is advantageous. From our standard seed
blends to exclusive specialty mixes, we can help you select the right hydroseed
mix that best fits your needs.
can I safely walk on my newly hydroseeded lawn? After
the hydroseed has initially dried and
you notice a color change. Once the sprinklers are activated make
sure the ground is firm enough to hold your weight. Walk as flat as possible,
try not to twist, turn, or drag your feet.
are some areas not coming in? It is
best first to determine if you are getting consistent, adequate watering. Some
areas will retain more moisture while others will dry out faster due to trees,
sloped ground, and heat retaining surfaces such as concrete. Make sure your
sprinklers are evenly saturating the ground. You may need to water some areas
more often or for longer periods with supplemental irrigation until lawn is
established. Sometime sprinkler patterns may shadow (see Sprinkler Information under the
Lawn Care Tab).
are there weeds in my new lawn, and what do I do about them? Our
Seed mixes are State Certified 99.9% weed free. Weeds in new lawns can come from
existing topsoil, screened top soil, or blow in from adjacent areas. Often these
annual weeds lay dormant until they receive enough water with your new lawn.
These weed seeds can become established because in essence they lay dormant and
are essentially pre-germinating. Usually, weeds come in the strongest in areas
that receive some moisture, but not enough to allow the grass to begin to fully
establish such as in a shadow areas under
sprinklers. Adequate watering will
enhance grass growth and reduce weed encroachment. As the grass matures it will
begin to compete and choke out the annual weeds. Most weeds in newly planted
lawns don't do well with consistent mowing, while more perennial weeds will need
to be treated later with an herbicide. Don't pull weeds in the newly hydroseeded
lawn. If a weeds block the spray of sprinkler head simply cut it off
(see Weed Control under the Lawn Care
is it safe to use my lawn? After
the lawn has been mowed the root system begins to further develop. Each mowing
causes the grasses roots (rhizomes) to begin the formation of a sod base. After
several mowings the lawn can receive light traffic. The longer the lawn's root
system has time to more fully mature, the safer it becomes to maintain heavier
Section answers questions concerning long term Lawn
In the early spring
after the snow leaves I see circular brownish pink areas that look
like dead grass. What is it and is it harmful to my lawn?
see is evidence of snow mold. Both pink and grey snow mold is caused
by fungi that grow and attack dormant grasses at low temperatures
under snow cover. Certain grass types and varieties are more
susceptible. The fungi feed on available nitrogen in the grass. Your
best defense is to keep the available nitrogen in the lawn low.
use low nitrogen fertilizers (i.e. 10-20-20, 6-20-24, etc.) no later
than the end of September. Secondly,
always put your lawn to bed by cutting it as short as possible and
removing the clippings. An excess of grass canopy growth and nitrogen
from fertilizer is the perfect recipe for snow mold. New lawns
are more susceptible and often don't have enough root mass to
recover. If your new lawn has snow mold lightly rake the spots.
Raking allows sunlight and air to disturb the fungi. Don't rake too
hard it may damage new tender roots. (see Lawn
for Mowing and Fertilizing Information).
In the spring when do
I first fertilize, and what should I use. In
our area, the first week of April or when ground temperatures reach
50 degrees F is usually when the grass begins to break dormancy. To
wake up your lawn use a high nitrogen fertilizer (i.e. 21-10-10). It
is easiest to use a broadcast spreader at a rate of 5-7 lbs / 1000
sq.ft. Organic fertilizers may be a good option.
for more Fertilizing Information).
How much water does
my lawn need? In
the spring you only need to supplement the rain. As the season
progresses you want to begin to water deeply periodically. In summer,
deep watering 2-3 times per week is best. Water early in the morning
at dawn when water pressure is good and before the wind and sun can
cause excessive evaporation. Early morning watering allows the ground
to soak up all of the water and not remain soggy. Bluegrass in 90
degree weather needs approx. 2" of precipitation per week. 2
waterings of 1" is preferable to 5 waterings of ½" To
measure how much water your lawn receives, place an empty tuna can
out and see how long it takes to fill 1". Do this to determine if
your dry spots are getting enough water.
How do I repair my
lawn that is worn down from heavy traffic? Several
things are can be done to assist in your lawns in repairing itself.
The ground is compacted and will need to be aerated. This will
increase oxygen exchange and help drainage. Excessive traffic is
stressful to grass. Fertilize the wear spots with a balanced
fertilizer (16-16-16). The extra phosphate will aid in root
development. The additional potassium will build cell wall thickness
within the grass blade making it more wear tolerant and better able
to retain moisture. Feeding your lawn will encourage new grass roots
(rhizomes) to spread and begin filling in the open spaces. Grass that
it actively growing will need more mowing. Every time you cut your
lawn it encourages root system development. Finally, if areas are too
thin for this approach consider overseeding.